A Guide to Picking Ideal Engines for Your Vehicle
If you have ever tried to purchase a replacement engine for a vehicle before you may have run into any of the many pitfalls that can happen when trying to select either a reconditioned engine or a second hand engine. This will be a guide to the common problems and hopefully be able to show you how to choose the ideal engine for your vehicle with as few problems as possible.
First thing you should consider when shopping for a replacement engine is what type of engine you would like to purchase. You will normally have the choice of either a second hand engine or a reconditioned engine.
The second hand unit has both positives and negatives associated with it. On the positive side the second hand engines are normally cheaper than reconditioned engines. One of the other positives of second hand engines is that you can sometimes get them in a “complete” state. Which means it will have manifolds, brackets, and other bolt on items already attached to them when they are delivered. The negative aspects of a second hand engine are generally, you do not know the actual mileage of the engine you are buying, you do not know how the original owner drove the vehicle before the engine was taken out of it. This means you could end up installing a replacement engine into your vehicle with parts inside of it that are near the end of their life. Also you may find if the unit is sent to you in a “complete” state,the engine itself will have a warranty on it for however long the supplier is willing to give ( normally 3 months) the ancillaries will not carry this same warranty and many times you are better off taking off the known working ancillaries from your original engine and reinstalling them on the replacement engine. This means more labour as they have to be removed from both engines and reinstalled on the replacement.
The reconditioned engine also has its positive points and negative points. On the negative side a reconditioned engine is generally more expensive than a second hand engine. The reconditioned engine will have a break in period where the vehicle needs to be driven at a milder lower rpm in order for the bearing surfaces and piston rings to bed themselves in over a normal period of 1000 to 1500 miles. Also reconditioned engines normally come in a “bare” state. Which means what you are supplied with is a cylinder head and engine block, sometimes they do come with a rocker cover and a sump attached but since the same bare engine block may fit a range of different vehicles, it is not uncommon to have to change these parts over with your original engine. On the positive side while a reconditioned engine is more expensive the extra cost can be directly attributed to the work that has gone into it in order to provide you with the best unit possible to ensure long life as long as it has proper maintenance. Generally any reconditioned engine has been disassembled, machined, wearable parts inside the engine are replaced for new, mating surfaces for gaskets machined the engines are also cleaned and sometimes painted so there is also less mess involved for your mechanic. Another positive is the fact that a reconditioned engine that has had all the wearable parts inside replaced for new will in effect have 0 miles on it.
Some of the common things heard in the trade from different mechanics are all based on personal preference. You may run into one mechanic that tells you that he only likes to fit second hand engines as he perceives getting a bare block to be more work to install. Not taking into account that to do the job properly he should be changing over all the ancillaries anyhow, in which case the reconditioned engine makes this task easier as the ancillaries are already removed before it is sent to you. Then you may run into another mechanic that will only want to install reconditioned engines, they do not trust second hand engines as they cannot guarantee that in 2 months you will not come back to them with another failed engine because the second hand engine was just taken from one vehicle and put into yours.
At the end of the day the decision is up to you, the vehicle owner, what type of engine you choose for your vehicle. If you plan to keep the vehicle for a long period of time, then reconditioned would be the preferred choice. If you plan to just install an engine and then sell the vehicle on or get rid of it then a second may do the job for you.
Hopefully this article will help a few people become more educated with the process of purchasing either second hand engines or reconditioned engines.
After Your Car Warranty Expires: Car Care
Oh No! My car warranty expired! Now, what will happen if it breaks down? If this is a subject on your mind, here are the 5 most common services that will help add years more dependable service to any car, pickup, SUV, or van. Collected from years of providing car care service and products, and seeing the results.
What the heck is a timing belt? My advice. Replace your motors timing belt about when the car has reach 75,000 miles. Cost: under $250. A motors timing belt turns the motors cam shaft, which make the valves open and close, to let fuel in and exhaust out. After so many millions of flexing actions, the belts internal steel strands weaken. If the belt breaks, on some motors, the valves will stay open – instead of closing, causing the piston to smack into the valve with a sledge hammer hit – a damage that can cost over $2000 to repair. Not all motors need this service, but its wise on your part to check your car manual, or have a mechanic look to see if your motor has timing belt, or not. And of course, replace it every 4-5 years or 75,000 miles.
Change your other four fluids if your car is near 100,000 miles. My advice. They are radiator, power steering, transmission, and brake fluids. Cost: about $75 for each service. Why? Because several unseen conditions; electrolysis, acid attack, and fluid breakdown, are all reaching a dangerous point, and present in the fluids – they are the common causes of: Your cars radiator coolant leak and funny smell, when the a/c or heater is on – and that scum on the inside of your windows that won’t clean off. That is a heater core leak problem. [Replacement cost: up to $550]. New radiator service products, strong enough to end such leaks – but, have no fibers or particles, may solve the problem. These new stop leaks work effectively; even stopping intake-manifold coolant leak problems – a $1500 repair, otherwise.
The new breed of radiator servicing and problem solving products can also improve cooling characteristics, and stop electrolysis – one negative that eats holes in the radiator, erodes and causes manifold gasket and seal leaks. Coolant fluid breakdown – a condition where the protective additives in the coolant are used up, occurs in about two years – the time period before your next service and coolant replacement. Ignoring this service can have you and your family on the side of the road looking a your well-cooked engine – if ignored. A good treatment will claim to clean and neutralize acids, offer ingredients for better cooling efficiency, provide long-lasting stop leak protection. Protect gaskets and seals and rubber hoses.
Power steering fluid needs a good clean-out and protection, too. Cost: $95. Power steering fluid loses its lubricity and turns bad on the system. The cause of seal leaks, the constant drone emanating from the pump, and the cause of your steering gear or rack developing a rough, severe wear spot you feel, just off center-turning of the steering wheel, left or right. Acids, friction, and surface roughness can be removed with a complete flush, clean and anti-wear product.
“$2,599 to overhaul my transmission? Are you crazy? No sir! That’s what it cost!” And when they change your fluid, demand they pour new fluid out of a bottle – into your transmission, because most shops buy recycled transmission fluid – a profit building tactic, that, down the road will take many years of life off your transmission. If your transmission has developed a rough shift, slow shift, leak, or clunk sound – around 40mph, It needs some real medicine – a fluid change just won’t do now, as its not strong enough! What may work to end the hidden causes of those problems? New chemistry products packaged as a complete service treatment. They should include cleaners containing protectors, along with metal and fluid conditioners.
“The brake pedal is almost touching the floor! We could have killed that person in the cross walk!” The brake pedal never goes down that far unless you brake system has a leak – or the automatic adjusters are dirty and stuck. Remedy? It time for a complete brake inspection. The tech – better yet, your local mechanic – who will do the inspection and brake correction service – just as good as a franchise shop will do for you, for less than half what they charge. You may just need front wheel brakes or all four wheel brake shoes or pads. When doing so, your cars brake cylinders are also rebuilt and flushed out at this time. If all seems OK, and just a little cleaning is all that’s needed – ask them to flush the system out with new brake fluid. That’s it!
Conclusion So, those are my reasons why, at about when your cars are 4 to 5 years old, all the above services need to be done – to avoid costlier problems. Then, every three years – because fluids breakdown almost twice as fast in older vehicles. Servicing cost for all the above run about $500, and is good car care life assurance – that may help you avoid many times that amount, is this mechanic’s opinion. Do one a month to spread the cost until your all done.